Tuesday, February 26, 2008

The best cup of tea

Hello all, Kendra here. On Monday Aaron, Andrea, and I went to this really nice Shrine in Kyoto to see the plum blossoms. The cool thing about plum blossoms is that they bloom despite the cold and the snow.So, yadda yadda a big metaphor for perseverance against all odds, Japanese people love plum blossoms almost as much as cherry blossoms (whose message is not as cheerful; their message is "life is short and beautiful then we die"). But the really awesome thing about this trip was, we got tickets that got us into this area where we got served tea. So what? you say. Read on!

Here is the Shrine's top with the pink and white blossoms below.

Oh, but who is this? This is maiko-san. An apprentice geisha basically. Kyoto is really the only place left in Japan that has this sort of maiko. There used to be hundreds of young girls going into the geisha world, but now a days the numbers are very low. So seeing them is a big deal. They are, contrary to American belief, not prostitutes of any sort. They are artists at heart. Learning shamisen (like a Japanese 3 stringed lute), drums, singing, calligraphy, dancing, tea ceremony and other stuff too. They entertain at expensive parties that are not really open to the public. They fill drinks, make jokes, basically they are professional "life of the party" people who also happen to be classically trained in traditional Japanese arts. Their trademark of course being their garb; the kimono. The complete kimono set that this maiko is wearing cost more than my car back home.

So at this event you could either sit around a raised table or wait for your turn on the floor.We opted to wait for the floor because you get to see better and the geisha actually sit right in front of you. This picture is of a different maiko-san from the back. Her obi (the tie around her waist) is tied in distinctive maiko fashion; called a "dangling obi" in English. The obi when undone is about 8 meters long. Only maiko wear their obi like this. It is extremely heavy, sometimes I wonder how they can walk in so much fabric. See how at her neck their are subtle lines that are unpainted skin, that is also a geisha trademark. It's said to allude to other feminine parts, get my drift?

Here are 3 maiko-san serving tea. Notice how their hair ornaments are slightly different. The geisha system,although ruled by women, is still very Japanese in that is has a very strict hierarchy. The one on the left with the most things in her hair is the youngest kind of maiko. You can tell by her hair style and makeup.

Can you see a difference? This is a true geisha, not a maiko. Her hair style is much more refined, more grown-up. Her obi is tied up much shorter and her kimono is not as bright. It shows that she is an older, more accomplished geisha. She was assisting the tea making geisha.

Here is the youngest maiko I pointed out earlier.Everything about her is to make her look childish. Only her bottom lip is painted, and she has an incredible amount of flowers in her hair. If she were wearing her shoes, she'd look even more childish. The maiko's shoes are something else. Think a wedge flattened on the top and bottom. Oh here's a picture.
So imagine walking in those! In a kimono! Geesh! I would topple over. But, these special shoes are designed to make the maiko have a childish sort of walking gait.

This is another geisha. She sat behind us making tea. For your ticket you got a tea sweet and a cup of frothy matcha green tea.

Here is me and maiko-san. How pretty! Such refinement. She's okay too. Haha, just kidding. I look like a bum next to her.

After the tea we looked at some more blossoms.

Ugh, bad picture. If you're wondering why I look so poofy, I have 3 hooded sweat shirts on. It was cold okay.




Today we leave for Tokyo. We are taking an overnight bus so that should be interesting. We'll be there for two days and then we're back here to Kobe. Hopefully it will be nice and warm when we get back!! ...okay maybe not. One can hope. Till next time.

Monday, February 25, 2008

Super Crazy Weekend

Aaron here: We are coming off of one of the craziest weekends we've enjoyed so far in Japan. The past few days have been filled with new experiences, some expected, and some not. Nonetheless, it's been an exciting time.

On Saturday, we began our day by going over to the Tanigawa's home (The Tanigawas are the family Kendra and I stayed with our first two days in Kobe. They helped us find and move into our house as well). Katherine came as well, which is good, because she has magical Japanese powers and can help translate for me. Mrs. Tanigawa is quite a character, and she loves to feed us. Unfortunately, most of the food she made us for lunch on Saturday had meat in it, which is not Katherine's cup of tea. But there was plenty of good salad and the like as well.

Before we left, Tanigawasan called us up and told us to come early for lunch so that we had some time to plan--for what, I'm sure you are asking yourself. Well, at the time we weren't quite sure ourselves. We knew that Tanigawa-san had recruited us for some kind of get together involving young children, in which we would have to entertain them in an English only environment. I think the theory is that young children are very impressionable, and so Japanese parents like to put there kids in setting where only English is spoken, hoping they will pick some of it up. (It's required to learn English in schools here. Think of what it would be like if all Americans had to learn Japanese.)

Anyway, so we thought of a few songs and games we had learned from working at Summer camps, and we left the Tanigawa's home hoping for the best. We arrived at a small building filled with tables and chairs, with a little kitchen area. Before too long, the room was filled with about 15 children from age 5-9 with their parents. The host of the party introduced us (all three of our names are exceedingly difficult for Japanese people to pronounce). Then everyone basically stared at us for a minute, and then the host told us to begin. Needless to say, not a lot of preparation.

We found some cards with animals on them and played a game where we tried to teach them the sounds the animals make in English. And yes, animals make a different sound in Japanese than in English. For instance, pigs say "bu, bu" in Japanese, as opposed to "oink, oink" in English. Then we laid out the cards on a table and made an animal sound and they had to grab the card with the picture of the corresponding animal on it. They did quite good. Then, we sang a couple camp songs and went right into Duck Duck Goose, which went over pretty well for the most part. Similar to in America, young boys in Japan can be quite competitive, and young girls can be quite shy. While I was it, a made a girl the "goose" and she immediately burst into tears. I quickly picked a new "goose" and she was fine again. The parents laughed, so I didn't feel too too bad about it. The only other time a girl cried was when we played musical chairs. She couldn't find a chair when the music stopped, and the waterworks started. She also was fine again in a short time. Everyone else loved the game.

This brings me to another interesting tidbit about Japan. In Japan, people often play a game the equivalent of "rock, paper, scissors" called "Jan-Ken-Pon." Children play it religiously, and where we quickly grew sick of it in our youth, it never seems to get old over here. Like in America, it is also used to decided disputes, and even business men in offices are known to use it to decide who will be doing portions of a day's workload. So, it was quite amusing when the children brought "Jan-Ken-Pon" into musical chairs without any prompting. If two kids ended up on the same chair when the music stopped, even if one was clearly there first (on the bottom) they would immediately go into a game of "Jan-Ken-Pon" to decide who remained in the game. The boys are very intense when they do it. Whereas we merely pound our fist on our hand, they shake their hands and thrust it forward, as if throwing dice. They have impressive footwork as well, making "rock, paper, scissors" look like some kind of martial art (or emulation of Japanese cartoon characters.) In any case, the victor was never questioned, and both children enjoyed themselves whether they won or lost.

We also played "Simon Says," which proved a little difficult for the children, but they caught on eventually. And we put on a spur of the moment interpretation of Little Red Riding Hood. Guess what part I played? Yup. The wolf.

After the session was over (after a good couple hours) the parents had us sit down in chairs and presented their children one at a time to give there thanks for our activities. That was a little different, and many of the children were quite shy during this, even if they weren't during the games. It was kind of uncomfortable, but hey, that's the way they do it. I also got a possible job interview during this parade of "thank yous". It would be a pretty serious job, and I doubt I'm really qualified, but we'll see what happens. They have to contact me first, however.

Anyway, after that strange few hours, Mrs. Tanigawa found it warranted to treat us to a pampered evening. We went straight from the place where we played with the kids to a Japanese public bath. If you aren't aware, the Japanese have very strong feelings about taking baths. It's one of their favorite past times, and very important for health and tradition. Therefore, Japan is covered with two kinds of bathing facilities--onsens, which are natural hot springs, usually found in the mountains, and bath houses, which don't have any natural flow of water. This was my first time going to a bath house.

When we arrived, the first thing was saw was a large sign saying that tattoos were not allowed. It is important that a explain here the difference in tattoo culture between America and Japan. As any American can tell you, it's not too uncommon to find tattoos on regular old Joes and Janes back in the states. It's a little rarer here, and unfortunately, tattoos have become extremely stigmatized because of their link to the Yakuza, or the Japanese mafia equivalent. For a very long time, members of the organized crime networks in Japan have had large, extravagant tattoos, usually covering their backs, and usually containing dragons or fierce beasts. So, because of this, tattoos are considered quite taboo over here. To illustrate how taboo they are, let me give you this little anecdote. There was a friend of a friend of a friend at a spa in Osaka, an American, caucasion girl, whom we just met the other day, actually. Anyway, she had some tattoos, and she covered them up with tape, as is the trend when going to a public bath. While she was in the pool area, an elderly, male, worker spotted the tape covering her tattoo, and she was actually kicked out of the facility. Now, I'm no scientist, but the odds of a white, American girl with a small tattoo being part of the Yakuza seems pretty slim, but nonetheless, it was enough to get her booted.

Anyway, back to our story. So, when we arrived and saw the no tattoo sign, Tanigawa-san immediately remembered about Kendra's tattoos and she grew concerned. She spoke to the clerk for what seemed like 10 minutes or so (and Mrs. Tanigawa is a powerful negotiator, which is another story altogether) and nevertheless, she returned with a shrug. We weren't allowed to go in. Kendra, feeling terrible, in a moment of desperation asked if they had any tape available that she could just cover her tattoos with. Tanigawa-san went and asked, and returned with a roll of skin colored tape. Why the clerk hadn't mentioned this option before escapes me, but we were allowed to go in, which was the important thing.

It was strange for me specifically, because I was the only one of us who had never been to a bath, and I was also totally by myself. They gave me a quick rundown of the bath etiquette, and I was off. There are always two lockers you need at a place like this, the shoe locker by the entrance (never wear your shoes through a bath house, or any place that should be considered a "clean" place), and a locker by the baths. At the second of the two lockers, you deposit your clothes, hit the showers, and enter the bath.

The first thing that came to mind when I entered the bath was that this sort of place could never exist in America. It isn't so much the fact that there were so many nude people there, and therefore it would be too taboo. I think there isn't the kind of shamelessness in America to support a bath financially. The Japanese are a little more like the Europeans when it comes to nudity. I don't see this many people in America being comfortable enough to not only spend a few hours with other naked people of the same gender, but to spend a decent amount of money to do so as well.

The bath itself was quite nice. They had many different pools--some with jets, some with bubbles, and some that were just hotter than others. There was also an outdoor section with an onsen-esque pool surrounded by artificial rocks and the like. That's where I spent most of my time. It was too hot inside for me, and I needed the winter air to keep me from overheating in the bath water. It started to snow, and the wind picked up, and I still barely sat in the water. It must have looked quite strange to the elderly Japanese men, completely submerged in the bath water to avoid the cold air.

At any rate, it was a peaceful, relaxing experience--one that I think everyone should enjoy should the opportunity arise. I apologize for the lack of pictures, but I'm sure you understand.

After the bath, Tanigawa-san wasn't done with us. Nope. She brought us back home, fed us some cheese, gave me a beer, and waited for her husband to arrive. Mr. Tanigawa works with a pharmaceutical company, and he travels around the world for his work, and therefore is almost always gone, and also speaks pretty decent English. We tried to get into two different Yaki-tori places (it means grilled chicken) but one was full and one was closed. So, we went to an izakaiya, which is like a snack bar with lots of little grilled and fried foods, and lots of drinks as well. It didn't take long for us to realize that they weren't going to stop giving us food and drinks until they were satisfied with our complete and utter gluttony. Kendra and I both had four beers. I think I had at least six different kinds of chicken on a stick alone, not to mention beef, pork, grilled vegetables, and several other things Americans wouldn't imagine without having been to one of these places. We started with a sort of marinated octopus, served cold. I also enjoyed my first chicken sashimi (yes, as you feared, sashimi means raw). It was a raw piece of chicken served on sushi rice with a wasabi garnish. Basically your basic piece of sushi, only instead of tuna or salmon, it was chicken. And it was unstoppably good.

Anyway, they got us full and drunk and then brought us back for more food and drink. Mrs. Tanigawa must have poured me at least fifteen little cups of Sake (Japanese rice wine). She is convinced that I look just like Tom Cruise from The Last Samurai. White people don't see the resemblance. She also gave me a hug for the first time ever. This may not sound like a big deal, but over here, it is. People don't hug over here, period. It's just not a normal thing. They bow instead, and even that is more of an apology than a buddy-buddy sort of thing. I was always told that Japanese people had to drink before they opened up like that, and now I've witnessed it first hand. I guess that's why bars are so ridiculously popular in this country. Everyone has to get lit up to cut loose. Anyway, it was all good fun, and we went home around 11:30 after one of the craziest days ever.

Okay, go take a break, grab a snack, meet me back here for part two--which I promise will be much shorter.

Okay. So, after living here several months before going to a bath house, it figures that the very next day, we were invited to go to another bath house. However, this was no ordinary bath house, it was SPA WORLD, the largest bath house in Japan, found in the massive nearby city of Osaka. Our friend Abel, whom I've mention earlier, invited us and about 12 other foreigners (JET program people mostly) to go to spa world. And we obliged.

To put this place into perspective, it is like taking an amusement park, a bathhouse, and the food court of a mall and cramming it into one massive facility. It has 8 floors and includes a massage parlor, barber, full-sized gym, a few floors of spas and baths, saunas, snack bars, at least a dozen restaurants, rooms that are for nothing but sitting in recliner chairs, and about a zillion lockers.

We spent the first couple hours checking out the pool area, which is kind of like a miniature water themed park. Think of Michigan's adventure, for all us Michiganders, minus the rides. They have a lazy river, several water slides, another place to buy food, and an outdoor jacuzzi that was absolutely awesome.

We got dinner at an omelet place (they love their omelets over here. They cover them in curry and put them on rice. It's quite good). I got a doria (which is like a gratin, only with rice on the bottom), and it was awesome.

We spent the rest of the time in the spa area. It was amazing. I can now say that I've bathed in royal jelly. Actually, it was a mixture of royal jelly, honey, and milk, poured into the bath water (royal jelly is the special stuff a colony of bees feeds to the queen to make her lay a billion eggs. It's like a super energy booster or something). I also did a salt bath, which seems like a crazy idea, but is actually quite nice. You rub your whole body down with salt and sit in a super hot sauna for fifteen minutes or so. In case you couldn't guess, it makes you sweat like none other. But, it's supposed to draw out all of your impurities, as well as exfoliate your skin.
Then, there was a spot where you sit in a super hot bath and then move directly to an ice cold bath. Talk about extreme. I asked Abel what the purpose of the contrast was. He sad it was to give people heart attacks. I believed him. After the ice bath, you lay on a mat with your head resting on a little log, and let your body warm up again. I'm sure there was more significance to all of these stages, but I just did what everyone else did. It's the safest thing to do in Japan.

Kendra enjoyed most of the same spas on her floor, which was modeled European style. They had rooms with Greek columns and the like to make you feel like an old aristocratic European. Our floor was dubbed "The Asia Zone." One step into this magical floor of baths, and I actually thought I was in Asia for a moment. Yeah, it was basically just Japanese style, except one room that was decorated with Egyptian stuff. I don't know if they think Egypt is in Asia, or what. But the whole place was very slick, with lots of marble and polished stone. Very ritzy.

Well, that's about it. Hope you enjoyed my story, and maybe learned a thing or two as well. I know I did. Until next time.

Tuesday, February 19, 2008

Birthday Fun!!!!

Hey everyone. Aaron here. Time for a little update. This past weekend, Kendra and I hosted a birthday party for our good friend and local fulbright fellow, Katherine. We gussied up the place with balloons and such, and had a few friends over for a couple days. It was a riot.


Well, like any good party, this one was almost completely devoted to eating. Katherine had often mentioned her affinity for cheese, and after being thwarted by exceedingly high prices for cheese fondue at a local pizza place, we decided to take matters into our own hands. We surprised Katherine with an all-inclusive cheese fondue dinner.



Here she is, dipping something tasty into the cheesy dip. She's the one in the green and black. She's always the one in the green and black. In fact, if you look closely, you can see that her hair is actually colored green and black. Amazing.
On the left with his insanely curly hair is her long time friend Abel, (pronounced uh-bell) who is doing work through the JET program in Nara city (which is a really neat and old school city near Kyoto). Abel was kind enough to lend us his English Nintendo Wii (He still has his Japanese one to play the new Smash Brothers game on. Sorry for all you American gamers who will have to wait a while for that one.) He's so nice, and he always brings us great gifts.
And, in the back, as always, is Andrea, another fulbrighter from Kyoto. She's the one who helps us travel with her insanely good memory and infinite guide-book information. If it wasn't for her, I would probably be working in a rice paddy on the other side of the country right now, trying to find my way home.


Here's the whole spread. Looks pretty good. I wish I had some right now.
Also, we happened to know that Katherine was a big fan of Tiramisu, a delicious coffee and cream dessert. However, Japan has a way of failing to include real Mascarpone cheese in, much to her chagrin. So, Kendra once again took matters into her own hands and made her very own Tiramisu from scratch.


And she made plenty of it too. Because she didn't have a pan large enough, she made it in a large cardboard box lined with tinfoil. Luckily, there is no baking necessary. It was delicious.

The following day, we basically vegged out for the day, and made our own springrolls for dinner. Then, guess what we had for dessert? That's right, more fondue. This time, the chocolate variety.


MMMMMMMMMMMMM Yum yum yum yum.

We had all this fresh fruit to dip into it as well. And fruit don't come cheap in this country.

Then on Monday, we went to Kyoto to see a concert. Katherine introduced us to a Japanese post-rock band called Lite. They are pretty progressive and don't have any vocals. (which is usually a good thing, especially for a Japanese rock band--no offense to Japanese rock singers.)
Anyway, they really rocked, but they didn't play as long a set as I would have liked. Here's a picture of them playing along with the headliners, which were some older American dudes who played nothing but bass and drums. It was interesting to say the least.We got to meet Lite and talked briefly about progressive music in broken English. Katherine talked to them in Japanese, because she has magic powers. That's about it for recent times. Until next time, talk to you later.

Wednesday, February 13, 2008

Happy Valentines day, dude.

Happy Valentines Day everybody. In Japan, Valentines day is celebrated but, of course, in an very Japanese way. Instead of the man getting his lady something, the women get the men chocolate. And not just their husbands or boyfriends, but like all the men they know. They get their and so on. This kind of chocolate is termed "duty chocolate." It's usually just a little box of okay quality chocolate, nothing too crazy. But, if the woman has a significant other or a secret crush, she gives him a special kind of chocolate that is much nicer and fancier. I got Aaron some mini-snickers bars...fancy as it gets I say.

Honestly, he's been talking about them for a while now. I think he missed American candy. I had to get these at an import store.

Okay now we go back in time bit. Last weekend we went to Nara to visit a friend again. He had the new Smash Brothers for Nintendo Wii, so we were all excited to see it. Well, long story short, we had a great time. On the way home, Aaron, Katherine and I decided to get some food at Osaka Station and we decided on this place initially just to get Udon noodles. So, once we get in the place we find out it is a Kaiten sushi place, conveyor belt sushi!
Now, these places are not known for having the best sushi in the world, and true they are a little gimmicky but they are soooo cool! So, we sat in a booth and basically a giant conveyor belt loops around the entire restaurant. Each plate is coded for a certain price so you just take a plate you like off the belt then keep the plate so the waitress can total your plates at the end to come up with your final total. There is a huge variety of things going around and the chefs keep putting new stuff on the belt all the time.
The prices are listed on cards that tell you what kind of sushi you're grabbing. See the video at the bottom.
Okay, this is from yesterday. We went to a museum and there was this old water pipe outside showing how water pipes looked in the Meiji era. It was...cool I guess.


Here is Aaron and Andrea pointing at the water pipe. Oh what fun!Here is Aaron and I at the sign for the Kobe Museum. The current exhibit is a huge collection of Ukiyo-e, wood blook prints. You've probably seen them before. They are old Japanese prints showing famous kabuki actors, geisha, famous places, stuff like that. You've probably seen the one of the Great Wave. It's really famous. The exhibit was great. They didn't have my favorite piece but it was still really cool.
We are also currently borrowing a Wii, so we've been remembering all those cherished Wii moments...ahh...wii bowling. nothing like it.
I got this cool doll FOR FREE! Weird huh. The lady was just giving her away. I can only think of two reasons why; one is that usually when you want to get ride of a doll you have to take it to a Buddhist temple and have it burned in some kind of ceremony, so maybe that was a hassle for her. The other reason is that it is cursed and she just needed to get ride of it quick. So far, the doll has not come to life and tried to kill us...but we've got our eye on her.



Here is the video of the sushi highway.

Hope you are all keeping warm.
Pretty soon we will have some more interesting things to update on. The trip to Tokyo is coming up really soon. Miss you all!
-Kendra